Volume 12 • Issue 2 • February 2007

The Subtleties of Our Sport

My mother once told me that the Bible says it's as hard for a rich man to get into Heaven as it is for a camel to pass through the eye of a needle. I don't think I have to worry about being rich, but try tying on a #22 Adams dry fly on a 7x tippet, and you might identify with both the rich man and the camel. Such an exercise in dexterity might also break one of the Ten Commandments when it comes to cussing. At least with fly-fishing, we have the option of being forgiven by choosing a larger size Adams or going to the Woolly Bugger. Just for a chuckle, can you imagine a #22 Woolly Bugger?

To develop the thought further, have you ever tried to bring in a 24-inch trout on a 7x tippet? It's a challenge, but, amazingly, such a feat is not all that uncommon among skilled fly-fishers. So what is the theme of the above illustrations? It is that fly-fishing is full of situations requiring subtleties that set it apart from other types of fishing. Just watch the Saturday morning fishing shows on TV. Those big fish being hauled in with reckless abandon are probably at the end of a 20 lb. test line with a lure or chunk of something about the size of a sunfish. Now, I'm not trying to badmouth fishing with a spinning or casting outfits; I'm simply focusing on what makes fly-fishing such a challenging and fascinating form of angling. Would I dare say that, in fact, that it does involve more skill? I think so, and that is one of the reasons that we love it. When we who use the long rod are lucky enough to tangle with a 24-inch trout, or any sizeable fish for that matter, we have to develop a fine sense of judgment in knowing how much pressure we can put on the leader and tippet to tire our prize fish enough to take it in, admire it, and release it in healthy shape. Such an accomplishment is something to tuck away as a fine memory. We don't even have to kiss the fish to experience the pleasure!

Now, let's consider the technique of loading a fly rod. To observers not familiar with our sport, making a cast is about like that of throwing a football or cracking a bullwhip. That is the frame of mind we face when trying to introduce newcomers to the art of casting. We have to explain the technique required to load a fly rod, a process that requires precise timing coupled with an acute tactile sense in the hand, arm, and upper body. It is also an act that is tied closely to a state of mind that depends on an angler's sense of confidence, the path the line is envisioned to take, an awareness of obstacles and hindrances, and, ultimately how the fly presents itself to the fish.

Most fly fishers spend more time in the water than out of it–not so with other types of fishing. We see into the water and become a part of it as we calculate depth, the texture of rocks, silt, drop-offs, current, vegetation, and small creatures. We experience feelings of pleasure, adventure, observation, and not uncommonly, fear. Again, such experiences are rare in other types of fishing. In our sport, we wear our gear in a vest or chest pack rather than a tackle box. We carry pockets and patches that hold light weight objects–small boxes, fleece patches, flies, fine tippet, and a few dangling items. We are attired for fishing in the water, for most of the time, that's were we'll be.

Fly-fishing has been referred to as the quiet sport. That's not to say that we don't let out a few yahoo's or wow's when a big one leaps while we try to keep it on line, but in general, we are so focused that making noise is not our highest priority. We rely on such things as stealth; keeping a sporting distance from other anglers, separated enough so as not to carry on much conversation; wading carefully and quietly to blend with nature's current. Such traits require understanding, discipline, and patience.

The lay of the line is another nuance that is significant and virtually unique in fly-fishing. Most often, the general practice is to eliminate as much slack as possible between the rod tip and the fly without causing the fly to behave in a way unnatural to the creature it is imitating. But different situations call for exceptions to the straight line approach. This factor is especially true when fishing with dry flies. The straight line will cause a telltale drag so that the fly is being pulled through the water by the current, even though ever so slightly, rather than floating naturally as a true insect would drift. How do we cope with such a circumstance? It depends upon the situation. Often mending the line upstream by a flip of the wrist creates curves in the line that allow the fly to drift in a natural manner. If fishing a sinking nymph or streamer, such mending allows slack for the fly to sink faster to a deeper level if there is a current. If casting downstream, a steeple cast made by stopping the forward movement of the rod prematurely causes the line to land with slack in it to float naturally with the stream's flow whether it be a dry fly or a sub-surface fly. Another situation might call for a fly to land behind a stump or rock. In this case a sidearm cast stopping at an angle shy of the target creates centrifugal force allowing the fly to land behind the object. Does any other type of angling offer such techniques and skills to put a finishing touch on a casting strategy?

Other examples could be sited to illustrate the subtleties of our sport, but these are a enough to make a point. To use my favorite analogy, fly-fishing is as different from other types of angling as the contrast between playing checkers or chess. It doesn't take long to learn the basics, yet the fly fisher may spend a lifetime in trying to master the subtleties of our sport. And that is just part of why we love it so much.

–M.A.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Rod Usage and Safety Tips

[Our friend, John Floyd, passed along the following useful tips that would be worth practicing with regard to caring for our rods and using them safely.]

For many, using a handcrafted, high performance rod is a new experience. New materials used today perform significantly better, but differently than those of the past. In order to minimize the likelihood of damaging your rod, here are several suggestions that apply to today's rods.

• If your fly becomes snagged, then point the rod directly at the fly and pull straight back. This puts stress on the line rather than the rod. By doing this, you'll never break your rod on a snag.
• Objects such as flies and weights striking the rod will damage the blank and greatly reduce its strength.
• Avoid "high sticking" your rod when fighting or landing fish. Your rod will break if it is bent in an arc that is tighter than its design will allow, or at too steep an angle. Never attempt to lift a fish using the rod.
• Do not place your hand on the rod blank above the handle while fighting or landing fish. This puts excessive pressure at the single point where you hand is placed, rather than allowing the rod to distribute the pressure exerted from a fish over the entire length of the blank.
• Do not exceed the recommended line rating for your rod. Doing so can cause excessive stress to the blank and will void your rod's warranty. Braided line does not stretch like monofilament line. Using braided line without adjusting your drag or adding a monofilament leader can result in the rod breaking on a heavy hook set or when the rod is loaded.
• Take great care when transporting your rod. Deep scratches and nicks will greatly reduce its strength. Guide inserts can be cracked or chipped. Completely disassemble your rod and use a protective rod case whenever possible.
• After using your rod in saltwater, be certain to thoroughly rinse it with freshwater. Pay special attention to the guide frames and any other metal parts. Use of a corrosion inhibitor is recommended on the guide feet.
• When fly casting weighted flies, be careful not to hit the rod blank with the fly. This will damage the blank and greatly reduce its strength.
• Never use a graphite fishing rod in an electrical storm. "Graphite" rod blanks contain carbon fibers, which are excellent conductors of electricity.

Proper Rod Assembly Technique

1. Remove any dirt or debris from the male ferrule section before inserting it into the female section.
2. Slowly twist and push the rod sections until the guides are properly aligned.
3. Periodically apply a thin film of wax to the male ferrule section. This will allow the rod sections to seat securely, which prevents them from separating during use. Ferrule was is available in many fly shops.

* * * * * * * * * * * * *

From FFF ClubWire. . .

Trout Fishing and Winter Are Not a Bad Combination

By Ted Patlen–taken from the
Connecticut Fly Fisherman's Assoc. Newsletter

Medium to stiff wind, air temperatures in the upper 30's, bright midday sunshine, and clear running 39-degree stream water–beautiful conditions for a few hours of mid winter trout fishing. When the bug hits you, the "I just got to get out and fish even though I'll free my buns off" bug, take the plunge and hit the river. All you really need to remember is that it is not summer and the fishing will be different but the nature of the sport is the same.

Grammar school science taught us about metabolism and how it affects animals. Trout are cold-blooded animals so their metabolic rate slows down toward both ends of their natural temperature range. They do not need to feed as much because they are not as active. They become extremely efficient about food intake and expending energy. This physical/physiological slowdown prompts them to find a softer, quieter environment. They still need food, oxygen and shelter, just as they do the other months of the year and so they will position themselves in such places where there is easy access to all three. During the summer, trout will station themselves at various locations that have all three of these essentials.

Fast flowing riffles and boulder strewn pocket water are just two of the many places that the summer fish feel comfortable in, but during the winter these spots are normally void of fish simply because they cause trout to expend too much energy to hold in the lies. Slower pools and lay runs just down stream from the aforementioned spots are prime locations to find winter trout. The deeper pools give them their likely shelter while they are just a tilt of a fin away from the food chain. How much do they eat during the winter, and when does this manor feeding period occur? How long does it last? The need for nourishment diminishes with their metabolism, but they still need to eat. There are a few factors that affect the feeding habits of winter trout, but the most important concerns water temperature. Fluctuating temperatures caused by passing fronts will cause the fish to vary their feeding patterns, so look for consistent weather patterns. After one to three days of consistent weather, you can expect a better than average feeding period. The durations of this feeding time differ. These times are approximate, one hour to four hours. I have found feeding fish during a February thaw which lasted six hours. I have also seen the feeding stop abruptly when cloud cover rolls in.

The river that you select is also an important factor. Pick a stream that harbors a good number of wild trout or holdover fish. You do want to catch a fish two, so a healthy river gives you a much better chance. How do you fish the river? Remember that this is not fast paced fishing. Because the trout are lethargic, a more persistent approach proves to be more efficient. A basic rule of thumb is to fish slowly and methodically. I don't care what fly you choose, any of the standard patterns will suffice, but it is necessary to put the fly in front of the trout at the speed that they're expecting their food to be moving. Your chances of hooking fish will improve significantly. Fish the fly the way you feel. If it's cold and the water is off color, slow down the pace of the fly. Trout are inherently lazy creatures to begin with and will not expend unnecessary energy, especially so during their inactive times. If conditions are better and insect activity occurs, and this is not an uncommon affair, then you can change your approach slightly. There are too many variables to contend with and to list them all would be foolish, but to reiterate, the closer you get the fly to the fish and it is presented at the appropriate speed, the better your chance to catch a winter trout. All fish adapt to their environment, which also includes the hordes of fishermen. I've seen trout feeding, then swim out of the way of a passing fisherman only to return within minutes to its original position and continue to feed. My point: these so-called "educated" trout have adjusted to many of the supposed "cinches" that we throw their way. So the inquisitive fisherman, the person who is not afraid to experiment can (and will) have much success over his/her traditionalist counterparts. Use completely irrational flies; fish extremely slowly; keep the fly in the water; resist the urge to cast repeatedly; approach a popular "hole" from the harder, more difficult side of the river; reach under overhanging branches with the tip of the rod; challenge yourself. These tidbits of wisdom have been around for a long time.

Dressing for winter fishing is simple–dress warm and wear layers of wool or polar fleece. Fingerless gloves are useful (extra pairs are a godsend, too). One very important thing–do not dress tightly. Clothing that is too restrictive inhibits circulation; thus, you get colder. That goes threefold for your feet. A thin pair of polyester, nylon type dress socks under a pair of 80% t0 100% wool socks is all I use. I've fished for up to four hours in an ice-filled, freezing stream during February with this clothing arrangement before I needed to move around. Air pockets between the looser layers of fabric will greatly assist you in keeping warm. Now, let's see. . .sleep late, fish slowly, dress warmly, catch fish, then go home early and eat dinner. Is this fishing or what!

~~~~~~~

Anatomy of a Fly Line

By Pat Hinchliffe–taken from the
Pikes Peak Flyfishers newsletter

The "weight" of a fly line is based on the weight, in grains, of the front 30 feet of fly line. This standardization of fly line rating allows line and rod manufacturers to coordinate their efforts in designing rods and lines that are perfectly matched with each other. At the time that these standards were adopted 30 feet was considered a reasonable length of line needed to adequately load the rod.

Since rod stiffness has changed over the years, many line manufacturers are now "pushing" the weights of their lines to the top end of the spectrum to help fully load the newer rod materials. Some anglers routinely move up a line weight for a specific rod.

The lines and weights most fly fishers are concerned with are –

Line weight	Weight in grains of the first 30 feet
3	94-106
4	114-126
5	134-146
6	152-168
7	177-193
8	202-218
9	230-250

While there are literally dozens of fly line brands in the world, all of them are made by one of only seven manufacturers. They are Cortland, Rio, Scientific Anglers, Monic, Northern Sport Fishing Products, Airflo and Shakespeare. The first four are located in the U.S.

Basically, all fly lines are nothing more than a core covered in a coating. All the characteristics of a fly line–its weight, whether it floats or sinks, if it is weight forward or double taper–are controlled by those two factors. Applying the coating is by far the most important and secretive part of the process.

The cores of all fly lines are typically made of braided nylon, solid nylon mono or hollow core nylon fiber. Kevlar, Dacron and other synthetics have been tried over the years, but, so far, nothing works as well as nylon. Braided nylon is the most common, since it retains the least coil memory and is the supplest, especially in cold weather. Typical break strengths for braided cores are 12 pound test for 3 weight and lighter rods, 20 pound test for 4–8 weight rods and 30 pound test for 9 or heavier weight rods.

Once the core is made, stretched, dyed, singed and heat set, it's ready for the secret coating process to begin. This is where things get complicated very quickly. The core is passed through a series of dyes where the coating is applied. These dyes open and close at specific times to allow the coating to build up or be reduced, thus producing the tapers. All these processes have been done on 2,500 foot lengths of line. After coating, the lines are cut to length in the right spots, hand inspected, boxed, labeled and shipped to stores around the world.

Minutes of the January Monthly Meeting

By Roy Hickman, Secretary

The meeting was called to order at 7 P.M. by President Danny wheat. Nineteen members and two guests were present.

Danny read an article that he had prepared for the local newspaper regarding our club. There was no objection to any part of the article.

Election of officers for 2007 was held. Elected by acclamation were Bill Elgin, President; Mike Smajstrla, Vice-President; Glenn McCullough, Treasurer; and Roy Hickman, Secretary.

Bill Elgin announced the following committee chairpersons: Education–Doc Harrison, Youth Education; Greg Craig, Adult Education; Conservation–Doc Harrison and Danny Wheat; Cold Water–Rick Wilson; Warm Water–Dianne Williams; Salt Water–Preston Weatherred; Newsletter–Mike Andrews; Membership–Roy Hickman. Elgin also announced his appointment of Doug Teter and Bill Emshoff as Board members-at-large.

Membership –John Floyd reported that the club now has fifty-four paid members for 2007. We have seventeen new members since October 2006, and there are fifteen 2006 members who have not renewed for 2007.

Education and Conservation–Guy Harrison reported that club members have contributed a total of $ 500 to the Guadalupe bass program. A questionnaire was distributed to determine who would be interested in a fly tying program that would meet at Riverside Nature Center on Saturday mornings from 9:30 till noon. The first meeting would be held on March 24th. Doc also reported that TP&W intends to hold a fly-fishing educational program at LBJ Park on March 31st.

The program for next month's meeting will be presented by Steve Flannagan, who is a fly tyer from San Antonio.

Greg Craig, who is co-chair of the Education Committee in charge of adult education, reported that he had been in contact with Bruce Bowman of United Methodist Church regarding a fly-fishing program that the club will host on Sunday afternoon, February 25th in the church's gym.

The formation of a new Gulf Coast Council of the Federation of Fly Fishers (FFF) was discussed. There sill be a conclave held in Lake Charles. Louisiana, on May 18th-20th as a organizational meeting. Bill Elgin spoke regarding this new council and whether our club should communicate our interest in being a part of the council. Dianne Williams moved that our club join the new council . Seconded by Roy Hickman, the motion passed.

Cold Water chairman Rick Wilson reported that things seem to be going smoothly at the three lease locations. Crab apple is now open all week. Guest passes were also discussed. Crabapple and Double B are to receive one-half of the proceeds from guest passes. There appears to be some poaching occurring at the leases.

Dianne Williams, Warm Water Chairwoman, reported that she will be organizing a white bass outing for this spring. Rick Wilson stated that he had entrance privileges to a place on the Pedernales River.

The February board meeting will be held on Monday, February 5th at 5:00 p.m. at the Security State Bank board room.

The program for the evening consisted of members relating their experiences at the three trout leases–fishing, catching, equipment and flies used. The meeting adjourned at 8:30 p.m.