Volume 12 • Issue 7 • July 2007

The Patience Factor

An angler is standing in the calm stream. Focused with intensity, he targets the tippet in his hand at a fly’s wee eye with whatever steadiness he can muster. Obviously, a crisis is at hand as the matching mayflies light atop the water’s surface, and the telltale ringlets and splashing sounds signal that a hatch is on and that a battalion of trout are having a feast.

This scene is on the cover illustration of a popular fly-fishing catalog. It’s not the first time this picture has appeared. An earlier version perhaps painted by a different artist capturing a different angler, a slightly different background, and not quite the same number of mayflies and rises as its twin facsimile appeared some years ago. Perhaps the images are so similar due to a bit of artistic plagiarism or else, quite innocently, two angling artists independently hit upon the same idea based on actual experiences that captured so well a frustration that countless fly-fishers have sometimes experienced in quite similar circumstances.

How many times have we fly-fishers encountered situations when our nerves are making demands that test our patience and concentration? Such occasions seem to fly in the face of the tranquil scenes of beautifully curved casts unfolding toward an inviting destination. Nevertheless, reality insists that our sport is a mixture of serenity, excitement, joy, adventure, and a dash of other emotions that make for a unique kettle of feelings. The pictures of the frustrated angler desperately seeking to tie on a fly before the hatch ends underscores the many times that patience is an ever-present quality that accompanies our engaging sport.

The first example of patience paying off might occur during the act of gathering all of the fishing gear and appropriate attire necessary, sometimes on short notice, for a trouble free outing on the water. Our enthusiasm to be swiftly on our way sometimes leads to one or more important items being left behind. As an extreme consequence, such haste could result in a paralyzing surprise, like “Geez! I forgot my reels!” Other possibilities might be disgust at not having a wading belt, spare tippet material, or a fly box containing the very flies intended for your outing . One suggestion for solving this problem might be in a time of leisure to make a checklist of all the things needed when we going on any fishing outing and applying the patience to double check the list before heading out for a fine day on the water.

After arriving at the destination and getting all of the preliminaries accomplished, we head with anticipation toward making our first cast. Patience, patience, please! How about taking time to survey the surroundings. In doing so, we might consider the spots that look most likely to hold fish waiting for a tasty tidbit to venture their way. What locations hold some protection for fish instinctively trying to hide from predators? What is the best entry point and what path seems most likely to offer both stealth and safety for our approach? What type of casts would be most effective under the circumstances. What food would the fish most likely be focused on at this time and in this environment? What is the most logical fly to use at this time under the current conditions? These are just a few things that might be planned during a brief time of patience preceding our first moves before entering the water.

We take stock again as the current flows our way. If a hatch is on, a dry fly would be an obvious first choice, but we must observe the type of fly that best matches the real creature causing the busy response of fish rising to gulp a portion of the parcel. The closest imitation in both size and appearance would be most logical. If no response occurs, close observation may suggest that the fly is dragging. That’s a telltale no-no for a dry fly. Patience. . . . A steeple cast will land with the necessary curves to allow natural drift. A few flips of the wrist to mend the line may be needed to nurse our feathered decoy along its way.  A strike! The contest is on!  Our patient observation led to this thrill, almost in the fashion that pieces of a puzzle bring a picture together.

Following the hatch, we might try some nymphs and streamers. We have already searched out the logical places where fish may softly fin in wait of sustenance. We might also take time to turn over a few rocks to get an idea of what creatures rest within the water. We also know from reading and word of mouth what subsurface creatures would exist in such surroundings. Streamers don’t have to drift naturally, though they might, and so stripping in line will work quite nicely with some experimentation as to slow or rapid retrieve; steady or irregular stripping. Patient experimentation will lead the way. Nymphs might be successful, too, with the same techniques but modified to their preference. No strikes yet? Depth is a big factor. We try getting our fly or flies–if we have a dropper on–deeper, perhaps adding weight or taking some off. All of this takes patience. Remember, we’re trying to put the right pieces together to make a picture of success.

One might come to the conclusion that success in fly-fishing is a lot like success in life. There are many variables in both, but taking the time we have to observe and experiment various combinations based on a continuous learning process is our best chance for success both large and small, just like the fish we catch. It takes patience, which in itself, offers a wholesome satisfaction.

–M.A.

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“ Imagine how peoples’ lives might be improved if everyone committed themselves to being knowledgeable and found it within themselves to be a little more patient. It’s hard to argue that the world wouldn’t be a better place. Will fly-fishing make you a better person? Not necessarily. Then again, it may remind you and those around you of the value of those two key attributes. Fly-fishing is patience and knowledge in action and the result is really quite amazing.”

–John Savage on Article Stamp website
www.articletamp.com submitted 3/23/2007

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“When, I wonder, are folks going to learn that it is a dangerous thing to attempt to lay down hard and fast rules about fishing? It’s been tried many times, always with embarrassing repercussions. No sooner does a fellow arrive at a nice, neat set of common-sense rules of fishing and, still worse, make these rules a matter of public record, than the fish hold a meeting, conspire, and proceed to upset the applecart.”

John Alden Knight, “Upstream or Down?” Sports Afield Treasury of Fly Fishing, Tom Paugh,  editor, (New York: Lyons & Buford, Publishers, 1989).

 

July Meeting: Thursday, July 19, 2007; 7:00 P.M. at the Riverside Nature Center (located on the north side of the Guadalupe River on Francisco Lemos St. At the west end of Louise Hays Park). Business: Committee Reports and Pending Topics; Program: Gifted angler, Aaron Riggings (pending no schedule conflicts).

 

From FFF ClubWire. . .

Waders ????
Taken from the Southern Sierra Fly Fishers’ Newsletter

Styles of Waders

As with many of the decisions you’ll be making, this first decision will depend on the type of water that you’ll be primarily fishing–shallow, moderate, or deep.

Hip Waders– These fishing waders extend up to the upper leg and groin area of the angler. Hip waders are popular for fishing shallow waters because they are more comfortable than other fishing waders and because they are quite simple to get into and take to off.

Waist Waders– These fishing waders extend up to the waist of the angler and include a belt that you buckle around your waist, similar to a pair of pants. Waist waders are popular for fishing moderately deeper waters because while they are not quite as comfortable as the hip waders, they are still more comfortable and easier to maneuver into than  chest waders.

Chest Waders– As the name suggests, these fishing waders extend up to the chest of the angler and include straps that you secure over your shoulder to hold them up. Chest waders are popular for fishing deeper, slow-moving waters because they allow the angler to get closer to the fish in the deepest holes. The down side to these waders is that they are more difficult to get into and out of in the event of the eventual bathroom break.

Types of Waders

There are two different type of fly-fishing waders available today. They are the “Bootfoot” and the “Stockingfoot” wader.

Bootfoot Waders– Bootfoot waders are the all-in-one fishing waders like the ones we remember growing up with as kids. The benefit to these waders is that they cannot be turned inside out to dry them, which is very important to keep the mildew away. Other cons that are sometimes mentioned are that they are heavier than stockingfoot waders, but once the boot is factored into the equation the weight is very similar.

Stockingfoot Waders–Stockingfoot waders do not have a hard-soled boot attached all in one unit but include a neoprene sock instead. Wading boots are purchased independently and fitted over the neoprene sock. The disadvantage to these waders is that they typically cost more since you purchase the wader and the boot separately. The advantage is that they give you more flexibility to mix and match different types and styles of boot and waders based on the conditions you’ll be fishing in. These types of waders are definitely growing in popularity because of the flexibility they give the angler.

Wader Materials

This is one topic open for discussion but unless you’re going for your doctorate in wader technology (which could be a reality someday with all the new technology manufacturers are introducing into these waders); we’re only going to discuss two types, “Neoprene” and “Breathable” waders.

Neoprene– These waders are made of a thick, insulated rubber-like material call neoprene. They are primarily used today when fishing in colder water conditions because of their insulating ability. Generally, neoprene fishing waders run from a 3 mm thickness (for warmer weather fly-fishing) to a 5 mm thickness (ideal for cold water). Generally speaking, if you plan on doing some winter fishing or will be fishing the icy waters of Alaska or a similar climate, then neoprene waders may be the way you want to go. The problem with neoprene waders is that they are not breathable, thus making them an uncomfortable choice when fishing the warm summer months.

Breathable– These waders have taken the market by storm over the past few years. They are designed to allow your body’s perspiration to escape while still keeping the water out. You’ll definitely want to hook up with this type of wader to maximize your comfort if you plan to spend a full day or multiple days on the water. Some of today’s breathable waders are made from such materials as Simms QuadraLam(TM),  Hodgman’s Horco-Tex ®, and the ever popular Gore-Tex ®. With names like these, your pocketbooks  are really the only thing that will determine which brand or type of breathable wader you decide to go with.

Recommendations

My recommendation is to look for waders that have a reinforced and possibly padded knees. This will be necessary when kneeling along the steam as you release your catch or kneel for that photo opportunity. I also recommend that if you can only afford one pair of waders, which is common for beginners, I would go for a felt-soled boot and breathable wader combo. Personally, my first pair was, and still is, a waist wader. I just hated the idea of trying to undo the chest waders for those necessary bathroom breaks. Also, I went with the breathable wader because I could still use them in every condition. I could wear them in the summer and remain cool and could wear sweats underneath when fishing for winter steelhead to stay warm. Now, I just mentioned a new term a moment ago (felt-soled) that wasn’t brought up before. A felt-soled boot is simply one on which about a ½" of felt is attached to the bottom of the boot. The purpose of the felt is to increase your traction on those slippery rocks and steam beds. There are boots without these felt soles, and they do cost less money, but I highly recommend the felt sole for your safety. You’ll be glad you did. One last thing. If you purchase the stocking foot waders and buy a pair of wading boots, take note of the waders to see if they come with built in gaiters. Gaiters fit over the top of your boots and are a means to keep gravel and debris out of your boots. These are very important in keeping you comfortable. If your waders do not come with these built in, look for a pair to purchase separately. Now, get out there and make that first purchase.

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The Tying Corner

THE RUBBER BAND DRAGONFLY NYMPH
Article by Eric Schubert–North Idaho Fly Casters
Illustrations by Adrian Jund–North Idaho Fly Casters

For fly-fishers, the nymph of the dragonfly is by far the most important stage of this insect. Unlike the adult stage, the nymph has large bulbous eyes and generally a thick, cigar shaped body. In cross section, the abdomen is somewhat triangular shaped, being flat on the bottom and slightly ridged on the top. The legs of a dragonfly nymph are fairly pronounced in comparison to most aquatic insects.

Shades of black and light green are the two most common colors in lakes. They do, on occasion include colors such as darker greens, grays and reddish brown. Dragonfly nymphs are good at hiding and staying out of reach from feeding trout. If a trout can find a dragonfly nymph, it will often take it in preference to many other available foods. Likely this is because of its large size.

This fly pattern for the Rubber Band Dragonfly Nymph is a very effective imitation of this dragonfly stage. I have seen this fly being tied by a variety of fly tyers, but I am unaware of who the originator is. The tying stages are simplistic and require only three materials for the eyes, body and legs. In order to replicate the long body shape of the larger sized patterns during the spring, use a 4X hook, such as the Mustad 9672. Mustad hook 9671 can be used during the fall when the next generation of nymphs will be somewhat smaller than those in spring.

The body of our fly is made by winding 3/16th” wide rubber band material around the hook shank. I prefer the purple rubber hands that are used to secure bundles of asparagus at your local market.

These rubber bands are the correct width and each will produce about three flies. Since the body material will be colored black or olive, the purple rubber band makes for a great underbody color.

Dragonfly nymphs are able to move quickly through the water  using a jet propulsion system. The nymphs have internal gills through which water is sucked into the body and then expelled. This expulsion can be quite rapid to provide an emergency means of locomotion. Their legs also aid in movement, and in this pattern is repllicated by adding some pheasant tail fibers on each side of the fly.

Since the eyes of this fly are quite pronounced, you can purchase pre-formed “dumbell” eyes, or you can make your own. Merely cut a small length of 80-pound monofilament; then heat each end. The monofilament will melt and provide the proper eye size that you will need.

Fish this pattern with a full sink line, allowing your line to reach the bottom of a lake. Since dragonfly nymphs are highly predacious, they will stay near available food sources such as shoals or shoal drop-offs into deep water. When not feeding, they tend to hide under submerged logs and rocks as well as among the bottom vegetation. If you can find these locations and get this fly to the correct depth, you will be successful at catching fish. Gently manipulate the fly pattern, and then apply more sudden movements to mimic their short and quick bursts of movement.

Also remember that the nymphs are generally larger during the earlier parts of the year and smaller during fall months. Adjust your fly sizes accordingly.

[The link below will lead to the illustrated instructions for tying the Rubber Band Dragonfly Nymph.]

http://www.fedflyfishers.org/ClubwireArchives/TheFlyBoxDocs/RubberBandDragonflyNymph.pdf

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